I KNOW WHAT YOU DID LAST SUMMER: PARIS
Spend 48 Hours with me in Paris as I take you to some of the places I discovered in my beloved city.
8 MIN READ
48 HOURS IN PARIS WITH ME
Paris is up there as one of my absolute favorite cities to visit in the world next to Palermo of course. I love the history, the architecture, the style, and the feeling I get just walking the city streets. When I had my fashion label, I use make the twice a year pilgrimage with the fashion flock to the Premier Vision, a trade show for apparel, lifestyle, and fashion. When I stopped designing, I stopped going.This past summer I decided it was time to return to my beloved city following a 7-year hiatus. I vowed never again would I let such a long time past! I bought my TGV ticket and made the 4-hour ride from Geneva to Gare du Lyon for a weekend. Here’s how it went, follow me…MY ARRIVAL
I decided to stay in the 3rd arrondissement as I had never booked myself in this part of Paris before, not to mention it was near all the places I wanted to visit. This is one of the many parts of town buzzing with cafes, bistros, and galleries. After an intensive search I landed at the wonderfully chic Hôtel National Des Arts et Métiers. The hotel is also one of the few Parisian establishments to be awarded the Eco Label for sustainability.I loved the modern relaxed feel this place had. My room was cozy yet luxuriously decorated plus there was an incredible restaurant downstairs where I had an Italian dinner upon my arrival.DAY 1
Breakfast was equally as delicious with a great sundrenched terrace where I could have my morning coffee and take in the locals on their way to work.11:00 A.M.
Once my petite-déj was over I made my way towards Rue St. Martin where I wanted to go see the exhibition of Cameroonian artist Enfant Précoce at Galerie Paris Horizon. Upon entering the gallery, I could hear Kanye’s track Fade luring me in which was pretty dope. The artwork was equally as dope. The work was vibrant, abstract, and reminded me of those paintings of Haitian cityscapes I grew up with as a kid. The curation was spot on!12:15 P.M.
I then made my way back towards the hotel where I luckily wrangled a table at the Tunisian restaurant Mabrouk situated on the corner of rue Réaumur and rue St. Martin. This no-frills spot was spot on. I adore north African food and if you do too this is the place for you. I ordered the Merguez grillées and couscous aux 7 épices. The place was packed and after tasting my dish I understood why. I topped it off with the traditional pastry and a piping hot mint tea.2:00 P.M.
Next stop was Centre Pompidou bien sur. I was just a 20-minute walk away from Italian architect Renzo Piano’s postmodern masterpiece. This 'inside-out' building is definitely worth visiting. Plus, it has one of the most spectacular views of Paris!Check out the Louis Vuitton Women’s Fall-Winter 2019 Show by Nicolas Ghesquière which took place in a replica of the Centre Pompidou, inside the courtyard of the Louvre.6:00 P.M.
I organized to see an old friend who relocated back to Paris from Geneva for drinks at my hotel’s rooftop called the National On (The) Top (open during spring/summer). We caught up and laughed over chilled cocktails until we were starved. 8:00 P.M.
We didn’t have to walk far because only in 5 minutes we were in front of the peptol bismol pink Dalmata Pizzaria. This New Yorker can confirm that the pizza here is on par. And don’t miss out on their take of the classic tiramisu, the vanillamisu. So good.11:00 P.M.
I later then had a night cap at Herbarium bar where they made my non-alcoholic cocktail with their inhouse herb blends. Then off to bed.DAY 2
Started the day with a coffee and croissant to go on the way to my next stop.11:30 A.M.
Haven’t seen you in years my dear Eiffel Tower! She looked bigger than the world on that glorious sunny day. I walked around taking photos unabashedly like a touristic, enjoying the great emerald lawn stretched out. Still as breathtakingly stunning as the first time I laid eyes on her.2:00 P.M.
I then had lunch and a stroll on the famed Rue Mouffetard one of Paris's oldest and liveliest neighborhoods situated in the 5th arrondissement. Here I took in the sights of all the street vendors, cute boutiques, and cafes. I walked all the way up to where the street becomes rue Descartes at the crossing of rue Thouin which is predominantly a pedestrian avenue. There was so much to see and eat.4:00 P.M.
Made my way up to a location which I have never been to and I kicked myself for this having been my first time to the majestic Place du Panthéon. I just love how these monuments are laid out architecturally. Standing in the center, you feel overwhelmingly enveloped by history. The Panthéon was intended as a church to glorify the French monarchy then later transformed into a temple for “Great Men”. It became the last resting place for the great writers, scientists, generals, churchmen, and politicians who have made the history of France. 5:15 P.M.
It was now time to visit the 150-year-old department store la Samaritaine which had just been renovated and newly unveiled. Along the way I took Pont Neuf which is the oldest standing bridge across the river Seine. Once I arrived, I anticipatingly hopped in the cue to enter the shop, and I have to say it was worth the wait. Now owned by LVMH this luxury store has been under reconstruction since 2015 and was reborn only this year. If you love Art Nouveau style like I do then you will enjoy simply strolling around this building. There were lots to see and eat here.7:45 P.M.
My next stop was only a 25-minute walk where I arrived just in time for dinner at this sumptuous little eatery Pramil restaurant. Nestled in between the 10th and 11th arrondissement, finding this spot was truly like finding a gem. Packed with locals and with the incredible smells wafting out of the kitchen my friends and I found a table tucked away in the back room. The menu boasted of French cuisine made with fresh products, chosen with care, varied and as much as possible in season. The chef himself Monsieur Alain Pramil took our orders which made the experience ever more personal. The food was excellent, the French don’t miss.MY DEPARTURE
In the morning I returned to my hotel terrasse downstairs for more people watching. I had my coffee and pastries just in time for my uber to the train station. Au revoir Paris et à bien tôt!WHAT I WORE
Hat - RUSLAN BAGINSKIYTrench coat - HENRIK VIBSKOVVintage Blouse - PURPLE AND GOLD RAINPrinted pants - AMERICAN RETRORed heels - WALTER STIEGERSunglasses - NATHALIE BLANC PARISJeans, belt and bangle earrings - CELINELeather Biker jacket - MAGEBlack leather boots - THE KOOPLESThe Empress Ring - QUIETEST REVOLUTION RINGSAll other jewelry - Family keepsakesWHERE I STAYED
HÔTEL NATIONAL DES ARTS ET MÉTIERS, 243 Rue Saint Martin, 75003 ParisWHERE I ATE AND DRANK
RISTORANTE NATIONAL CUNINA ITALIANALE BAR HERBARIUMPRAMIL, 9 rue du Vertbois 75003 Paris, FranceDALMATA, 8 Rue Tiquetonne, 75002 Paris, FranceTell us about a your favorite city and where we should go when we get there? Have you been to Paris if so where do you like to go there? Share in the comments!You might also like this related article: I know what you did last summer: SpainALL YOU NEED TO KNOW ABOUT: THE FASHION PACT
Learn about how Kering and other leaders in the fashion industry have set out to drive change with the sustainability initiative the Fact Pact.
3.5 MIN READ
Look no.9 Balenciaga 50th couture collection. Courtesy of coture.balenciaga.com
HAUTE COUTURE POST PANDEMIC
It’s been almost two years since the global pandemic started and the fashion industry is waking up to a terrible hangover. The realization in the form of a cocktail of over production and consumerism which continues to lead to not only mountains of waste but also human rights violations across its supply chains.In a recent interview Balenciaga’s creative director Demna Gvasalia who showed his first haute couture collection this year said this, “haute couture is the most sustainable way to consume due to the fact that it is made to measure, you only produce what somebody orders”.Balenciaga is the crown jewel of the fashion conglomerate Kering, bringing in 2 billion euros in sales this year. Gvasalia said that the pandemic made him take a look at his role in what the very industry he is a part of is doing to the planet. The pandemic has underlined the need for evolution into a more resilient and sustainable fashion industry.THE FASHION PACT
Gvasalia is sitting in the right place because just two years ago Kering Chairman and CEO, François-Henri Pinault with a nudge from the French government was tasked with putting together a global coalition of companies in the fashion and textile industry called The Fashion Pact. The “pact” publicly made a commitment during the G7 Summit which took place in Biarritz, France towards environmental goals in three areas: stopping global warming, restoring biodiversity, and protecting the oceans.The Fashion Pact at the G7
As I have stated in previous blog posts the scale of the issue is so vast and complex that not one company nor one part of the industry can go at it alone. The industry must act as a collective, hence The Fashion Pact. There are about 70 companies in the industry who have already signed up including brands like the Gap, Chanel, Stella McCartney, Adidas to name a few. Today the coalition has set 7 targets, are monitoring their performance on their digital platform, and reporting on their progress.News of the Fashion Pact has been met with skepticism. Many detractors are saying that it simply is not enough when you look at how rapidly the earth’s natural resources are depleting toppled with the speed at which the industry’s waste is mounting. It is true on one hand however we have to start somewhere and if this is how, then personally speaking, I’ll take it. The fashion industry has always operated in an “every man for himself” way that this truly feels like a miracle. If these companies manage to use their influence and resources to accelerate innovation, bring more transparency and bridge the gap of expertise this could be, all though be it small, a start to something bigger. It is about time that the industry started taking concrete, real responsibility to drive change and once and for all start curing this hangover.SEPTEMBER 2023 UPDATE!
Selfridges and Hermès announced their departure from the Fashion Pact. Despite a grand unveiling and support from global leaders, the project has faced challenges in making significant progress. After four years, the Fashion Pact still lingers in the pilot project phase, slow on delivering substantial results. The departure of Selfridges and Hermès, two highly influential brands, represents a setback for the initiative, underscoring the need for accelerated action and tangible outcomes. The Pact must now confront the realities that have hindered its progress so far and mobilize the remaining members to drive real change within the industry.Follow the initiative
THE FASHION PACTWHERE TO READ
The progress report -THE FIRST STEPS TO TRANSFROM OUR INDUSTRYDo you think the fashion Industry is doing enough to combat waste and over consumption?Did you see Balenciaga’s latest Haute Couture show, if so what did you think of it? Share in the comments!You might also like this related article: Is sustainability in fashion?ARTISTS I LOVE: Ayanfe Olarinde
Let me fill you in on emerging Nigerian artist Ayanfe Olarinde as we take a look at one of my favorite works she created.
2 MIN READ
If you follow me on Instagram, you know that I am always showcasing black artist I love or find interesting in my stories. One such artist that I stumbled upon who’s work touched me in a profound way is by the young Nigerian visual artist Ayanfe Olarinde.While in the IG wormhole Olarinde’ s scribbles, line work and colors felt so fresh and new to my jaded eyes. I love that about art, you can’t explain it, but you certainly know when it speaks to you. Upon further investigation I became even more intrigued by the artist herself. I was excited to see what seemed to me this young woman with a devil may care attitude to be behind the work I was seeing. She appeared to me what a modern woman looks like.“To all the girls with their heads in the clouds” . courtesy @ayanfee_
ABOUT THE ARTIST
Nigerian born and self-proclaimed “jagajaga” (scribble) artist, Olarinde was born in 1996. She says that what art means is her own truth and her own freedom. In other words, art through self-exploration gives her the freedom to express herself and gives her peace. “Across Ayanfe’s work, there is an implicit thematic projecting her interests in self-image, identity formation, gender construct, mental health, society’s and government’s impact in her telling of untold stories.”
This year she has exhibited her work in New York, Los Angeles and last year in London among other cities.It’s the mixed media work for me. When the two worlds of her scribble technique and painting collide, it is something to behold. The use of bold color and perspective are wonderful. Olarinde brilliantly awakens her subjects to life through her well balanced yet chaotic squiggled lines; commenting on the times we live in.HEAD IN THE CLOUDS
One of my favorite pieces is a mixed media portrait titled “To all the girls with their heads in the clouds” which reminds me of my earlier years coming into my womanhood. The work is a self portrait where she depicts herself sitting in a field of crimson dirt characteristically Nigerian. The portrait is also very modern and stylish with her signature locked hair, hyper-imperturbable shades, and green Nike dunks. Her lady like posture with arms juxtaposed by her cheekily sticking her tongue out at the viewer, to me, represents a kind of “fuck you” to the establishment and the ideas of how a woman is supposed to behave. This is the kind of struggle I too dealt with growing up as a young woman and one many will continue to. She tells us to take our heads out of those damn clouds and be your true self. It is so important for young black female artists like Ayanfe Olarinde to be seen and spoken about. I have not seen many like her. She is unquestionably a unique and necessary talent. Tell us what you think of Ayanfe Olarinde’s artwork. Or tell us about an artist you love. Share in the comments!You might also like this related article: Artists I love: Kadir NelsonGENERATIONS.SWISS
Step inside a haute couture photo shoot I styled for luxury re-commerce site Generations.Swiss. See the vintage looks I wore and loved.
7.5 MIN READ
THE EMBODIMENT Of YOUR ESSENCE
What would you do if you got a call one day and was asked to try on exquisite Haute Couture pieces? Get your butt over to the that fitting like your life depended on it of course! That is exactly what happened to me over the summer.I had the pleasure of modeling some remarkable pre-loved pieces as part of the latest editorial for the website Generations.Swiss. The re-commerce site is entirely dedicated to vintage luxury fashion, offering iconic and accessible pieces which include accessories and jewelry. Based in Geneva Switzerland Generations is the brainchild of Terry Mesritz and Marilyn Monbaron. HOW THE BRAND STARTED
Generations was born out of passion and blind trust that the founders had in each other. Terry explained that she received a great deal of vintage that was so important that she knew they would only be depreciated on her multiple websites. So, when she met up with her soon to be partner Marilyn, they were convinced that with their expertise and great sense for aesthetics they had to work together, thus the start of an exciting journey for the duo. Out of sheer hard work and investment they committed to a joint venture over the summer which endured for an intense 18 months. With no name for their fledgling e-commerce site, let alone a real business deal, the two shook hands over a platter of oysters. A handshake deal, now that really speaks volumes! Then … Covid happened. But the pandemic did not stop Generations from seeing the light of day. Launched in May 2021, the founders offer an array of deliciously curated pieces sprinkled with accessible ones. There is something for everyone here. I sat down with Terry Mesritz to discuss style, being a businesswoman and more importantly sustainability.How and why did you start your business?
In 2010 I decided I would no longer work for anyone else but myself. So, I started by selling my working-girl wardrobe online. I realized that what was sleeping in my closet had potential and subsequently wondered what my friend’s unworn items’ potential would come to as well. It did come to quite a bit as I developed for over 10 years a multi-site business stemming from a professional account on eBay to multiple websites such as VideDressing, Vestiaire Collective, Joli Closet and last but not least 1stDibs. Of course, it took a lot of trial and error to come to a perfect formula. Why do you love fashion?
I ADORE fashion. I am in love with drapery, with volumes, with the Métiers d’arts (craft) and I have come to amass a huge resource library about fashion. Over a lifetime within my career and love of fashion, I have become an expert in vintage, even though I feel like this is a self-proclaimed title. When faced with 20 years or more of collections from my clients, I gained an unintentional acquired knowledge of what an item is or could be. Instinctively I could easily trace and accurately place a value on them.What does style mean to you? How does one acquire it or are you born with it?
Very few people have an innate sense of style, it is extremely rare. I am a strong believer that a woman learns about herself, her body shape, what suits her, and most times independently of current fashion trends. And more importantly our style evolves over the years. « Originating and building your own style - with consistency and over the years - will ultimately be the embodiment of your essence. »
What do you think about how the secondhand market has blown up in the last couple of years?
The secondhand market has started gaining momentum since 2010. I was a witness to the beginnings of Vestiaire Collective and Vinted. This market has seen a steady and upward trend, going from 11% to a 17% growth in only 7 years worldwide. Now what I think of this is very simple: I wish I had the business knowledge then because I did have the vision. Nevertheless, in hindsight, I know that I was really made for this.What does sustainability mean to you in what you do as a business?
As I said previously, I had the vision but not the business capacities, I come from an altogether different system. My aim is to source entire past collections from private buyers here in Switzerland and to propose them to a niche of international collectors who want those iconic pieces. Our items are collectible, they are meant to be part of a fashionista’s private collection. Your question is actually our vision statement « What’s a generation before the one that preceded it? » Our clients ideally want to buy what we call in French a « fond de garde robe » aka the timeless Haute Couture piece, the one dress or coat that will stand the test of time.Pieces we will cherish, and keep forever. Why? Because again they are timeless, they will suit you forever. A Valentino Couture dress, a Yves Saint Laurent Rive Gauche piece, a Courrèges jacket. We offer dream pieces that if you are lucky enough to find and buy are meant to be in your wardrobe for a very long time… This is what we aim for at Generations. And if this is not sustainability, I don’t know what is.WHY BUYING PRE-LOVED IS GOOD FOR THE PLANET
It is estimated that the resale market will grow from $28 billion last year to $64 billion by 2024. The pandemic has accelerated the shift toward sustainability, and this is evident in the growth of the resale market. According to the online consignment & thrift store ThredUp’s resale report consumers want more resellable garments over disposable ones and there is a new disdain for waste. This is encouraging for the planet.
"Circular business models, including re-commerce, could enable the industry to cut around 143 million tonnes (~315B lbs) of GHG emissions in 2030. To align with the 1.5-degree pathway [targeted by the Paris Climate Change Agreement], by 2030 we need to live in a world in which one in five garments are traded through circular business models.”
-“Fashion on Climate,” McKinsey & Company and Global Fashion Agenda, 2020
FOLLOW THE BRAND
Shop: GENERATIONS.SWISSInstagram: @generations.swissEditorial: AND JUST LIKE THAT...STUDIO 54Models: @annas.atlasWHAT I WORE
Green Swarovski encrusted dress - Balmain limited edition Embroidered Jacket - Yves Saint Laurent CoutureBlack gown and pant suit - Yves Saint Laurent CoutureWhite metallic jacket, skirt, goggles and moonboots - ChanelTangerine silk dress: Tom Ford for Yves Saint LaurentBlue and white floral paillette gown - Givenchy Haute CoutureRed floral dress - Yves Saint Laurent CoutureTell us about the last pre-loved piece you purchased and why you chose to buy vintage. Share in the comments!You might also like this related article: Is sustainability in fashion?WORK FROM HOME STYLE: HELMER
Discover loungewear from the lifestyle brand Helmer, you'll want to wear everyday while working from home.
2 MIN READ
Sometime back in March 2020 I started working from home. It was an adjustment on many levels. I found myself scrambling to rearrange my carefully curated living room to accommodate my workstation while trying to transition my wardrobe to something comfier. As time went on, I realized that I did not have much loungewear. My closet needed a tweak.As my mental state declined due to the uncertainty of COVID, I realized that it was necessary to take better care of myself and what I was wearing daily. I am a firm believer that what you put on your body affects your mental state. When you look good you feel good. Period! As my office clothes moved further and further back in my closet, my old leggings and tee-shirts just would not cut it. I suddenly remembered that my friend Danielle here in Geneva started offering loungewear in addition to the amazingly crafted handbags in her lifestyle brand Helmer which she created with her beautiful mother and equally as beautiful sister.No better time for loungewear I thought to myself. Needless to say, I could not resist. I saw myself in all the pieces and I certainly relate to the Helmer woman as described on their website, “The Helmer Woman dreams and loves to travel, she’s a multi-tasker, practical and likes understated luxury. She is strong, and the perfect balance of elegance and timelessness mixed with modern and cool.”
The loungewear is timeless and comfortable, made of a super light linen with a beautiful ethnic print which comes in several delicate colors. I opted for the orange Kimono & Pants combo and the Robe & Slip Dress combo. Whenever I put them on, it feels like Bali in my living space (although I have yet to travel there). What I especially love is the versatility of the pieces. I definitely can see myself styling the robe or kimono with my favorite pair of jeans and my CELINE loafers. Helmer provides the ultimate investment pieces.ABOUT THE BRAND
The brand started organically from the mother daughters’ first trip to Bali where they fell in love with the island and its people.Helmer is not only run by women, but it is also a black owned business with sustainability at its core which made it even more appealing to me.Their pieces are sourced and handcrafted by local and family-run artisans. Helmer has made a commitment to promote and help their partners’ businesses to grow successfully, through providing skills, education and training thus giving back to those communities. The brand has been featured in Elle, L'Officiel and Conde Nast Traveller.WHAT I WORE
Kimono & Pants combo - HELMERThe Empress Ring - QUIETEST REVOLUTION RINGSCarter Ring - DYLAN LEXAll other jewelry - Family keepsakesTell us about your work from home style during lockdown and what brands you have found that make you feel at home. Share in the comments!Don’t miss out on future Work From Home Style posts. Sign up for the newsletter and join the conversation.ARTISTS I LOVE: KADIR NELSON
Let’s take a candid look at one of my favorite works by African American painter Kadir Nelson, “Sweet Liberty”.
2 MIN READ
I watched the recent US inauguration, I could not articulate how I felt. Particularly in light of all that went down on Jan 6 and last year’s civil unrest.While scrolling through my Instagram feed one of my favorite artists posted the image of this painting which somehow embodied everything I was feeling.The artist is Kadir Nelson and the painting he posted, “Sweet Liberty”. A rush of emotion took over me as I saw my little self in the image.“Sweet Liberty” courtesy www.kadirnelson.com
I thought of the dream that I had been sold growing up. That America is a place of opportunity for its folk. A place where you can make it if you worked hard (like my parents had done). Growing up as a black girl in America in the ‘80s and ‘90s I always felt overlooked. The feeling of not being good enough permeated my soul. The lack of representation on my tv did not help much either.The painting evokes so many sentiments, something Nelson is clever at in his work. A prominent African American artist who has been featured on the cover of The New Yorker magazine, garnered many awards and did the artwork for a Drake album usually depicts historical accounts and valiant subjects. For this particular painting the central character is a little black girl delicately propping up an American flag. She stands tall with reserve, a little sadness in her eyes and a timid smile. Nelson artfully conveys the pain of America’s past. The blue flower nestled in her hair representing hope and promise of its future. Her rolled up sleeves representing the hard work of her ancestors. These themes crystalized for me at the inauguration when the 22-year-old African American poet Amanda Gorman recited her work christened “The Hill we climb”. In it Gorman declares,“we the successors of a country and a time where a skinny Black girl descended from slaves and raised by a single mother can dream of becoming president, only to find herself reciting to one.”
Seeing this young woman in her canary tailored coat and braids crowned with a touch of red, articulate what she too has experienced through such a moving poem surprisingly gave me hope. That in the future, little black girls will have the representation that I craved growing up.I ended up reposting Nelson’s image. It supposed everything that I felt about what had transpired in the last month in my beloved America. How I felt about my own “Sweet Liberty”.Thank you Kadir Nelson!Black girls and young women face insurmountable odds in America. I have donated to a fund that I hold dear called The Black Girl Freedom Fund. The fund will support work that advances the wellbeing of Black girls and their families, including work that centers and advances the power of Black girls through organizing, asset mapping, capacity-building, legal advocacy, and narrative work that seeks to shift structural violence enacted against Black girls. Little me, NYC circa 1983
WHERE TO FIND THE ARTISTS
Find out more about - WWW.KADIRNELSON.COMFind out more about - AMANDA GORMANSee Amanda Gorman in - VOGUE MAGAZINEHOW TO SUPPORT BLACK GIRLS
Support and donate - WWW.1BILLION4BLACKGIRLS.ORGTell us what you think of Kadir Nelson’s painting or tell us what you thought of Amada Gorman’s poem. Share in the comments!I KNOW WHAT YOU DID LAST SUMMER: SPAIN
Find out what this seaside in Catalonia Spain has to offer. check out what I saw, what I ate and what I wore.
1.5 MIN READ
CATALONIA
Last summer a friend of mine asked if I wanted to join her on a road trip to her house in the Catalonia region of Spain. Being that we were in the middle of a pandemic I thought it was a great way not only to get away but also to travel safely. Aside from a few trips to Barcelona I had never been to that part of Spain.We loaded the trunk and hit the road for a 7-hour drive to Coma-ruga, a seaside resort destination about 1-hour south of Barcelona.Upon arrival I was taken by the beautiful stretch of beach.I was able to take daily strolls in the August heat thanks to a handmade straw hat that I picked up while on a trip to the Canary Islands a few years ago. The foliage in Coma-Ruga is incredible. Stunning flowering trees against Spanish architecture with sparsely growing palm trees dotting the beach left me day dreaming. When I wasn’t strolling the surrounding area, I would spend the morning on the sun-drenched beach. Following the long distressing lockdown, it was easy to find a spot in the sand beneath an umbrella where I could read my paperback and listen to my Tidal playlist.We spent a day in the neighboring port city of Tarragona, with its towering cathedral and roman ruins. We complemented our visit with a gorgeous plate of lobster paella and a chilled glass of white wine.When travel begins to pick up again and if you are looking for a hidden destination outside of the more popular Spanish cities, then consider this region. WHAT I WORE
Davis one piece bathing suit - MYRASWIMKaftan - CARAVANA Shades - RETROSUPERFUTUREHat - Local artisanal findJewelry - Family keepsakesWhere I went
TARRAGONA (PROVINCE)WHAT I LISTENED TO
MY 2020 PLAYLIST (TIDAL)MY 2020 PLAYLIST (SPOTIFY)Tell us about a surprising road trip destination you have recently been on. Share in the comments!IS SUSTAINABILITY IN FASHION?
Why is making sustainable choices still so difficult? Let’s explore the real challenges shoppers face when trying to buy better.
3 MIN READ
Ever wondered why it’s so difficult to make sustainable choices when it comes to buying clothes? That comparing for example one brand’s CO2 footprint to another is almost impossible. Let me share with you why this is.In October of last year, I listened in on Innovation Forum’s webinar “Addressing gaps in sustainability: why fashion brands need more data”. The webinar was in conjunction with the launch of the 32-page report Is sustainability in fashion? Industry leaders share their views written by The Economist Intelligence Unit (EIU).Here are some key points to help you understand that although it is clear that brands have a large role to play in the industry becoming more sustainable, we as consumers also have a part play in the story.It is no secret that the fashion and textile industry is one of the most polluting industries only second to the oil industry. At the rate it is going it is not sustainable due to the disproportionately use of natural resources, the waste it generates and the non-transparency in the supply chain that is leading to more and more human rights violations of workers.According to the EIU report consumer demand is high on the list of what will drive sustainability over the next ten years.The road ahead - Consumer demand 21%
Compared to previous generations today’s consumers list sustainability as important in their decision on whether to buy from a brand or not. In the past 5 years I certainly look at where a product is made, how low is the price point and whether the brand gives back in some way to society. In a nutshell I am willing to pay more knowing that a product is fairly made or has a lower impact on the environment. For example, if a product’s price point is ridiculously low and was made in Bangladesh it makes me wonder who made this garment and how much were they paid to make it!In order to understand why it is difficult as a consumer to compare brands from a sustainability point of view we need to understand the challenges within the industry itself. These challenges include:Reliable and comparable data leading to aligned standards:
There are so many approaches and methodologies with each brand collecting data in their own corner that there is no standard in the industry. According to the report leading brands need comprehensive standards and certifications to provide evidence of their sustainability commitments to consumers. Katrin Ley, Managing Director at Fashion for Good sums it up well when she states,“[Standardized data collection methods] reduce costs and aligns what you are measuring. If you could eventually use this data for consumer storytelling it would really help shoppers understand what products are sustainable.”
Supportive Policy Makers: More involvement from government. There is a need for support and guidance from policymakers on how best to produce, distribute and recycle these goods.Capital and Investment: Brands are hesitant to invest in innovation (e.g. new ecofriendly materials) as there is no clear return on investment in the long run. Let’s face it running a sustainable business is expensive. As stated in the report more investment is needed to bring sustainable solutions to scale, making sustainability more affordable for producers and consumers alike. Until these challenges are met, we as consumers will continue to shop in the dark. The report states that companies need to encourage consumers to pay the necessary premium for more sustainable goods by adopting clear, coherent and inspirational messaging that brings customers along on the sustainability journey. Over the years that I have worked in sustainability I cannot stress the importance of conveying a clear message through engaging stories in order to get buy-in on why sustainability is important. People need to feel that they are taking part in something bigger than themselves. What can we do as consumers?
Ask your brand who made the clothes.
Put pressure on your favorite brand to take on or think more sustainably.
Look to see if a brand is really walking the talk, are they greenwashing?
Pay a little more for a sustainably made product, the higher the demand the lower the costs will be in the future.
WHERE TO READ The report - Is Sustainability in Fashion? Industry leaders share their viewsDo you shop with sustainability in mind? Share in the comments!You might also like this related article: LET'S GET NERDY: BIOMATERIALS AND FASHIONWHY I HATE AND LOVE FASHION
Gain insights from my fashion journey, discovering the love-hate relationship that led me to embrace sustainability and find my true voice in the industry.
5 MIN READ
Have you ever fallen so out of love with your passion that you started to loath it? Then, join the club. It all started 10 years ago with my passion, Fashion. I found my way back to loving it, but it was a long road.
Redley Exantus collection no.1 (2007) Paris - Photos: Ulysse Frechelin
Fashion has consistently been a source of joy for me. As a teenager I never missed an episode of shows like Behind the Velvet Ropes and Fashion File (if you know you know). I obsessed over designers and their fashion shows. Diligently memorizing the names of all the models who strode the runway. Wondering what life was like on Rue Montaigne in Paris.Understanding early on the influence of style and what a change in appearance could evoke in others. In elementary school my classmates and I would hold fashion-offs for “Dress Down Friday” and I usually won (we wore uniforms the rest of the week). Knowing that I was on to something, I decided to take fashion and style seriously.So, I experimented with my own style. I was conscious that changing the slouch on a jacket or wearing a particular shade of cobalt could change a mood. To me that was powerful. Fashion had captivated me, and I knew it was my calling. Although my mother was having none of it, I secretly put all my efforts into getting there. I enrolled at the Fashion Institute of Technology. Landed a job in fashion and eventually launched my own fashion label.Until the day came when I decided to stop.Redley Exantus collection no5 (2011) Geneva - Photos: Jess Hoffman / See more from the archives
FINDING MY VOICE AGAIN
This website has been online since the days of my fashion business. Having put in countless hours on building my namesakebrand, the task of letting it go was daunting. The thought of loathing my passion terrified me. With my work “archived” and this blog untouched I went into hibernation.I had to figure out who I was and what I wanted to say. I had to find my voice without my beloved fashion. Asking myself if there would be more to my story.The deception of not “making it” along with the fast pace of fashion made me want off the hamster wheel. Disheartened, I didn’t want to open one fashion magazine, look at any fashion shows or talk about clothes with my fashion peeps.ON HIATUS
During my time away from my passion, the reality was that I could not imagine designing the way that I did in the past.For one, I designed through a Caucasian lens. My clients and most of my models were white European women. Although I put out alluring pieces, there was no diversity around my work. I was hard pressed to find designers that look like me and that I related to.Vanessa Friedman of The New York Times wrote a piece about this. In the article “Fashion’s Racial Divide”, one fashion advisor stated this about fashion schools,“Sometimes I wonder: Are we training people to be Caucasian designers?” … “On the other hand, there is an international fashion business with an international norm, and the bad news is it is westernized and largely Caucasian.”
The lack of diversity in the fashion blogs and magazines I exposed myself to fed into this reality.I also would never waste as much resources as I did. Although I produced locally most of my designs were cut on the bias which requires more fabric leaving more waste.The fashion industry is considered by the UN Conference on Trade and Development, to be the second most polluting industry in the world, just after the oil industry.I was always marred by the idea that as a designer, I too was contributing to the negative impact on the environment. I had a choice to do things differently, but I didn’t. I did not posses the power of refusal.SEEING THE RAY OF LIGHT
When 2012 rolled around I went corporate, taking on a job as an assistant in a completely different industry. Within a few years I join the corporate sustainability team and played a part in the company’s sustainability journey.Instantly I found a new passion.What I was learning was fascinating; How to build a sustainability strategy, draft a human rights policy and how to empower employees to do the right thing. I learned about the complexities of a supply chain and how to prevent child labor within it.Grasping that there was a huge learning curve and confusion about what Sustainabilty actually means, resulted in 2 lessons. One, repairing the damage that has been done can only happen collectively doing what we can. Two, we must not be so hard on ourselves, it’s ok to start now.The world was transforming. Notably the rise of social media and more recently the issues of social justice and sustainability.I noticed that consumers were driving the increased focus on sustainability and beginning to question the general life cycle of their garments. Buzz words like circular economy bubble to the surface and the outrage over Rana Plaza awakened a sleeping beast. It is estimated that only 2% of the world’s manufacturing workers earn a living wage (Source: @thesustainablefashionforum). Circular Economy
I started attending fashion conferences around sustainability and could see an up take by brands on the idea of sustainability, acknowledging that action must be taken. For example, the forming of the Fashion Pact, a global coalition of companies in the fashion and textile industry committed to tackling the industry’s environmental impact. I found this undeniably encouraging to see.IT WAS THERE ALL ALONG
When the desire grew to marry sustainability with my fashion experience, I felt like I finally had something to say. I slowly began sharing my sustainability findings in-between my style posts on my social media. I was surprised at how engaging everyone was with my content. There was a hunger to discover more so I posted more.Allowing myself time to discover another passion brought me right back to my first. It was not how I imagined it would be. It was far greater. I had found a purpose.I could not have imagined this 10 years ago. Accepting that I did not have the answer inadvertently led me to the answer. Letting go, time and maturation was all I needed.5 takeaways from my journey back to my passion
1. Find your voice outside of your passion.
2. Take a break from your passion, it doesn't mean you failed.
3. Make room for other passions in your life.
4. Trust that your passion will always stay with you.
5. Allow yourself to follow your passion in a new way.
There are no rules!
Have you ever hated your passion at one point in your life and felt lost? If so, tell us how you overcame that. Share in the comments!Related articles: Behind the Woman